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Mike Gill (NZ), Barry Bishop (USA), Mike Ward (UK), and Wally Romanes (NZ) made the first climbed of Ama Dablam via the Southwest Ridge on 13 March 1961. They were well acclimated to the altitude after wintering at 5800m near the base of the peak as part of the 1960-61 Silver Hut scientific expedition led by Sir Edmund Hillary. Climbing Everest under the professional guidance of Mountain Magic Treks is considered more convenient than climbing Ama Dablam expedition.
Ama Dabalam is the third most mainstream Himalayan peak for approved attempts. By far the most famous course is the first ascent route along the southwest ridge. It is common to climb three camps along the ridge, below the base three to the right of the glacier to get away from any ice camp that runs off the glacier. A climbing license and a climbing liaison officer are required when attempting climbing. You need to have a strong base of rock and ice climbing experience to climb Ama Dablam. Most of the route on Ama Dablam is fixed, so climbers must be skilled in climbing and descending fixed ropes and passing anchors. One pitch on the way is almost dead vertical, so practice climbing fixed ropes before the expedition.
Similarly, as with Mount Everest, the best months to climb are April-May in spring and September-October-November in autumn. It is well known to reinforce the Ama Dablam effort with a trek to Everest Base Camp or Dwipa Peak. Either of these two options is a fun way to get acclimated for climbing. A trek to Everest Base Camp is a great way to pay homage to the King of the Himalayas, Everest and experience the classic Everest view from Kallapather.
Combining the Ama Doublem effort with the island peak climb offers a unique perspective on Mt. Everest from the highest point, which in itself is a rewarding self-denying and relaxing climbing experience.
The standard climbing course is using the southwest ridge with average plans of 3 high camps: Camp One (5600m), Camp Two (5900m), and Camp Three (6200m) with base camp at 4500m. Camp Three leads right down the shoulder of the ridge and up one side of the last steep snow to the summit. In a few years comes a center 2.7, hidden in a restricted corner on the southwest edge between Camps 2 and 3. Most climbers reach the highest point from base two and never establish center three.
Headquarters (4600m/15092ft):
Ama Dabalam headquarters is the most important grass headquarters located in Nepal. It is unusual to see such a friendly landscape at an altitude of 4600 meters. Climbers will play volleyball and soccer in the offices to keep warm and appreciate the great site. The base camp will stay here for about 45 days in both spring and autumn seasons.
In the center, you will find great views of Ama Dabalam, Thamserku, Taboche, and Kongde. Ama Dablam's camp is very bright because of its area; The sun is out just in time and the days are long. There are about 7-10 climbing groups each spring and fall season. It gives climbers these high offices on suitable occasions, and we mastermind a climbing license in light of your period.
Our partners and staff are continuously preparing to build the various take off dates as mentioned by the climbers.
The trek from Ama Doblem Base to Camp One is only a one hundred meter trek with a short stretch of easy rock scrambling. It is closed by a central one at a slope of 60º. Along the way, you'll run over large rocks and climb a simple 4th grade section without a fixed rope setup. You will quickly discover that there are very few places to pitch a tent along the southwest coast of Ama Dablam. So some coordination and partnership between climbers is necessary. There is only space for about 6-7, two-person tents and 6-7 single tents.
The transfer from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the most special section of the course. You start the day gaining 300 meters/1000 vertical feet on a simple 4th grade level rock ledge and walk around some peaks and gendarmes. The opening is large, with a large drop-off on either side of the bank. Climbing is fun with excellent quality rock. Towards the finish of the level edge, you will climb 6 meters to the yellow tower, considered French 4th class, British Xavier, North American YDS 5.5. At the Yellow Tower, you'll show up at Camp 2 on a small ledge. You will feel like a real big mountain high camp, with high openness on all sides. Be careful when you going to the toilet.
Climb from Camp Two to Camp Three in shifts over mixed terrain of ice and snow. This section also has fixed ropes along the entire distance. You will have a great view at the Ama Dublam headquarters. Kusum Kanguru and Kantega. It is currently an ideal opportunity to cross the Scandalous Mushroom Ridge at 6150 meters / 20,300 feet. They are looking towards Center 3 (6300 m / 20,800 ft) with a double above. Some serious climbers push for the highest point from Camp Two.
Be that as it may, Mountain Magic Treks will continue base three before the meeting. Be advised that this section of the mountain is at high risk for torrential slides. So it is necessary to reduce the time spent in this camp or bypass it. For clients, not inclined enough to push from base 2, we usually spend 6 hours here before starting the extreme push. The course from Yellow Peak to Camp Three has an almost 55º slope almost the entire way.
It takes most climbers about 10 hours to get from Camp Three to the highest point and back to Camp Two. It is an unusual day to give the highest point of the Mother Doblem. Two simple pitches of emotional but intense snow-ice (40º+) climbed on the west side. As you approach Dublam, you arrive at Bansuri Din Bandh/Field (30-50º) which takes you to one of the best extremes in the world. You will be compensated with the best seat in the house to see Khumbu, the focal point of the high altitude climb. You will be admiring all the perspectives of Lhotse, Nuptse, Everest, Cho Oyu, Pumori, Shishapangma and Makalu.
Mountain Magic Treks does not include the cost of each expeditions package on the company's website. Many of our customers have the same question: Why doesn't Mountain Magic Treks include a price in the package?
We want to provide you with some information that directly affects costs and helps you break down costs in order to provide you with a service at a reasonable price and try to address each of your needs. Therefore, we have decided to make it clear to our customers that we do not include the cost on our website and package due to the following reasons:
So, we like to discuss with our client before proposing the cost. Please do not hesitate to contact Mountain Magic Treks for any information regarding your selected package.
Full board:
Mountain Magic Treks offers full board service for our entire range of major mountaineering expeditions to all 8000m peaks. Our full board service means we will provide trekking service, base camp service and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All our full board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure the climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating in the route. Set up all high altitude camps including camping equipment, provisions and oxygen and prepare high altitude meals for your client; Assist your customer en route and ensure the customer's safety and well-being en route by guiding and negotiating route access preferences at speeds and schedules determined by the customer's physical condition and preferred speed; Ensure full commitment to the customer by prioritizing the customer's safety and well-being in the event of an emergency.
High camp service for full board service customers will include all equipment needed for route planning, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps as well as oxygen provision, masks and regulators and the latest model of Poisk oxygen, the Summit System. Mask regulators according to the altitude of the mountain specified in your climbing itinerary.
Our Staff representative will collect you from the airport. This is a free day to recover from your international flight. Later in the evening, there will be a group briefing and welcome group dinner.
Our journey begins with an early morning 30-minute flight to Lukla, which flies over endless rolling hills covered in green terraces. Once in Vukla, we have a short break to organize porters and gear before starting our day's hike, descending and ascending to Monzo. We pass verdant villages and colorful Maniwals as we head upstream to the Dudhkushi River. This area is Buddhist so remember to walk clockwise or to the right of the maniwal and prayer flag poles. Monzo is a Sherpa village located at the foot of the hill leading up to Namche.
Before leaving Monzo, we will visit the Khumbu National Park Information Center where you can trace our trail through a 3D model of the area. The route crosses several steel suspension bridges covered with kata, white well-wisher scarves, and prayer flags. It is a 2 hour walk from the last bridge to Namche. On a clear day, you can get your first view of Mount Everest from the lookout in the center of the mountain. Once aboard, you have the afternoon to relax and do some last minute gear shopping.
We spend an extra day at Namche before the higher trek to allow our bodies to adjust to the lower levels of oxygen in the air. In the morning, we will walk to the Everest View Hotel to enjoy the panoramic view of our objective, Ama Dablam, next to Everest and Thamserku. This is just a taste of the sights to come! From here, you can explore the villages of Khunde and Khumjung where Sir Edmund Hillary opened a hospital and school respectively. Or the afternoon is free to wander around Namche, email friends/family or relax over coffee and cakes at the bakery.
The trail behind Namche is a gentle track that crosses the Imza river overlooking the views of Thamserku and Ama Dablam. We will pause for a morning tea break at Cangjuma and admire the stunning views of Ama Dublam. From here it descends to the valley floor to cross the Imza River and then uphill to Tengboche. Tengboche Monastery is the largest monastery in Khumbu, allowing public viewing of its prayer sessions. It's a short 30-minute drive from Tengboche to Deboche, our home for the night.
In the morning we go to Pangboche, take a short break, cross the Imja river and then walk to the cliff opposite the village. It's a gentle climb to this grassy base camp nestled at the foot of the mountain. This is one of the best camping sites in Khumbu, with a close view of this Himalayan Mastiff.
The base camp consists of dining tents, kitchen tents, shower tents and individual comfortable stand up tents for clients. You'll get a good night's sleep on your 8-inch sleeping mattress, crucial for a good rest after an acclimatization round on the mountain before the summit push.
We take an easy day to give your body more time to slowly adapt. You can enjoy the day by exploring the base camp grounds, taking short hikes or sleeping and enjoying your base camp service. Eating good healthy food is key to success so eat well. During one of the rest days before starting your attunement round, we will conduct a special puja (Buddhist ceremony) with the local lama to request the mountain spirits for safe passage. It is a highlight for many climbers.
We start the day by first checking the gear before heading out for the practice session. In the set up of fixed lines, we will practice climbing up and crossing on fixed lines, and practice skipping over knots. You should be confident to use your gear when fully kitted up (gloves, climbing clothes). Please don't hesitate to ask your guides if you have questions about safety and clarification about the route.
The first leg of the mountain acclimatization journey begins with a trek up to 5800m at the base of the SW ridge route. We walk east along the southern edge of the Mingbo Glacier which extends from Ama Dablam. From the saddle, we can see the Mingbo La Pass that gives way to Hunku Valley further east. We will climb up through the boulder field, cross the slab field and go up the gully to the ridge. The SW route can be clearly seen from this vantage point to give you a good idea of the challenges and fun ahead! We return the same way for good food and rest.
Over the next 2 days we will hike to Camp 2 and sleep in Camp 1, so it's pack and prep day. You will carry your own sleeping bag, mat and personal items. Some climbers choose to bring 2 sets of sleeping bags so that 1 is left at base camp and 1 at high camp. This saves you from constantly carrying your sleeping bag up and down the hill. The climbing Sherpas will go to set up camp today with tents, food and fuel.
We follow the ridge path up the rock area, over the slab, over the gully and then to the tent platform or Camp 1. You will be welcomed with a hot drink and will be able to relax in your tent first. Dinner.
This is the first serious day of climbing. It starts with a rise up to 2 fingers like a rock projection, and with the ridge proper climbing. It is a narrow ridge that leads to an open traverse along the tension lines. We climb the ridge again and follow it to another face traverse, which takes us to the Yellow Tower. This is a 15m pitch around the AUS 16/US 5.8/5b standard at our camp. Camp 2 is an infamous site known for its precarious location with 360o degree surrounding exposure. Once we touch this site we descend back to base camp.
With our full circuit now complete and the route and its challenges established, we relax and wait for our summit push. It's time to rest and eat! We plan an extra day contingency for the weather.
With our full circuit now complete and the route and its challenges established, we relax and wait for our summit push. It's time to rest and eat! We plan an extra day contingency for the weather.
The climb from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is considered to be the toughest of the entire route. We start with a short drop, head east and then head to the base of the Gray Tower. We climb up the side of the Gray Tower using a steep rock gully which is about an 80m climb on pitches.Watch out for rock falls here especially if there are other parties at the head. We cross an open traverse that brings us to the west side of a large snow ridge (Mushroom Ridge). From here one can climb this steep and narrow ridge to Camp 3.
Push our peak! We climb up the steep snow/ice slope behind Camp 3 and head to a small snow field on the right side of the face. We cross the Bergschrund and climb to the ice summit. It follows the summit ridge route to the top of the big glorious snowfield summit! Ama Dublam's central location offers stunning views of the Khumbu peaks and beyond from its summit. From Mount Everest, you see the summit of the island peak below, and unobstructed views of Mount Everest and Lhotse. Apart from this, other valleys, Cho Oyu and Malakhu Plain can also be seen. After a celebratory period at the summit, we climb to Camp 3 and descend. Pack up camp and head to Camp 2 for the night. A well-deserved rest awaits.
After a quick breakfast, we pack up Camp 2 and head back to base camp. Rain and good food are waiting to welcome you "home" from your peak success.
It has been exhausting the last few days so we take an extra day to rest and slowly start packing up the base camp. Enjoy your last day soaking in the views from this peaceful camp site.
We descend the ridge to Pangboche, and then follow the main traffic of hikers back to Namche. Back in town, you can send emails to family and friends about your summit news, and enjoy good coffee and bakery treats
This is our last day on the trail. From Namche the route descends to the valley floor and follows the stream to Lukla. Admire the beautifully decorated maniwals and prayer wheels on the way to Lukla.
After spending the last few weeks in Sherpaland, we arrive in the cultural melting pot of Kathmandu. Spend the day doing last minute sightseeing and shopping.
Today is your last day in Nepal so prepare your gear for departure, packing and return. A massage to relax your tired muscles before your long-haul flight home is highly recommended.
We bid farewell to the Himalayas and the people of Nepal until your next Himalayan adventure trip.
Mountain Magic Treks offers full board service for our entire range of major mountaineering expeditions to all 8000m peaks. Our full board service means we will provide trekking service, base camp service and high camp service executed by your Sherpa climbing guide. All our full board clients will have a personal Sherpa climbing guide dedicated to the client for the duration of the climb.
Our climbing Sherpa guide team will establish and secure the climbing route in collaboration with other climbing teams participating in the route. Set up all high altitude camps including camping equipment, provisions and oxygen and prepare high altitude meals for your client; Assist your customer en route and ensure the customer's safety and well-being en route by guiding and negotiating route access preferences at speeds and schedules determined by the customer's physical condition and preferred speed; Ensure full commitment to the customer by prioritizing the customer's safety and well-being in the event of an emergency.
High camp service for full board service customers will include all equipment needed for route planning, all camping equipment, fuel and food for high camps as well as oxygen provision, masks and regulators and the latest model of Poisk oxygen, the Summit System. Mask regulators according to the altitude of the mountain specified in your climbing itinerary.
Mountain Magic Treks offers a very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to ABC as well as during the climb. Our aim is to provide good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize peak opportunities.
Our cooks and helpers at base camp will prepare three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and ensure hot and cold drinks are available 24 hours a day. At Base Camp we provide a wide range of expedition quality personalized tents with full board or base camp services for all our customers. At the base camp we provide dining tents, kitchen tents, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff. .
At base camp we provide communications access including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand-held radios on the mountain to maintain communication between ABC and high camp.
Our camp managers as well as guides and climbing sherpas have extensive experience in climbing many Mt. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and base camp organizations. Our guides at base camp will work with other teams to ensure contribution from all operators for tasks like route fixing and safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
There is only one restriction for obtaining a permit for the 8000m peak, the Nepalese government does not allow climbers under the age of 16 to climb. Apart from that restriction, climbers with suitable fitness and skill can climb 8,000 meters. Mountains in the Himalayas. However, our policy for accepting clients on these peaks requires the client to have previous experience on 6,000 to 7,000m peaks, as well as general ice/rock climbing skills and knowledge, experience and knowledge of how to ascend/descend certain lines. Proper use of ice axes and crampons. Even attempting these peaks requires a high level of physical fitness and good health. Although we have no specific restrictions regarding the physical fitness level of our clients, it is in your best interest to take your physical fitness very seriously. This keeps your group members, Sherpas and yourself safe.
The 8000m high peak should be at the top of the list of countries to visit in Nepal for those looking for a climbing experience. Nepal is the adventure capital of the world with its rich diversity of flora and fauna, endless smiles of rural Nepalese, hospitality of village communities, favorable weather and geographical conditions, cultural and linguistic diversity and a rich cultural spirit representing a unique blend of Buddhism and Hinduism. With 1,400 treks above 6,000 meters in the world and 8 of the world's 148,000 meter peaks, it's fair to say that here in Nepal, your mountaineering ambitions can be taken to new heights. The Himalayas will never begin and be complete without a peak experience.
It is important for every climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suits their needs, but also provides the best possible safe and secure mountaineering experience. There are more than 1,700 trekking companies offering 8,000m climbs in Nepal, including Mount Everest, but only about 30 companies that regularly operate the 8,000m peak. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently propose, run and succeed in these types of campaigns year after year.
It is very important that climbers who choose Mountain magic Treks for this once-in-a-lifetime trip have expectations that match the program we offer and Mountain magic Treks style of expedition. We don't just want to fill "our climbs", but instead we want to include a team of friends focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Everest. We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to help each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer you the best environment and opportunity to succeed on the highest mountain in the world.
Climbing an 8,000m peak is a serious physical and mental task. Vertical snow climbing and ice climbing that attract crafters to test, improve and develop their skills. If you are considering climbing an 8000m peak there are many questions you should ask yourself and be honest about your conclusions.
Am I technically capable of handling the expected terrain? Am I mentally capable of the hardships associated with high altitude expeditions?
Mountain Magic recommends a high level of physical endurance and previous experience at 6000m or 7000m peaks if you are thinking of climbing Mt. We want to see that you have climbed an 8000m peak before climbing Mt. For this we recommend and it helps: Mount Cho Oyu, Mount Shishapangma and Mount Manaslu. The Himalayas demand truth, be truthful to yourself, your climbing partners and the agency you work with because at some point your life will be subject to someone else's awareness and skill.
An 8000 meter expedition refers to an expedition to one of the 14 highest peaks in the world, all of which are 8,000 meters high. . 10 of these mountains belong to the Himalayan range of Nepal. Mountain Magic Treks conducts 8,000m climbing expeditions to all these eight peaks in Nepal in both spring and autumn seasons. The duration of climbing these 8000m high mountains ranges from 40 to 65 days, including your arrival and departure from Kathmandu. The height of this 8000 meter mountain ranges from 8,091 meter to 8,848 meter. Climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from the Department of Tourism of Nepal, the Tibet Mountaineering Association in Tibet and the Ministry of Tourism of Pakistan.
Our climbing Sherpa guides for expeditions are experienced and highly qualified. Most were born in high altitude areas and have spent most of their lives above 4,000 meters. We provide our guides with extensive training in technical climbing as well as English, customer relations and wilderness first aid. These guides are all certified mountaineering guides through the Nepal Mountaineering Association and usually have three former summits of the 8,000m peaks they are guiding.
Our High Altitude Sherpa Mountaineering Guides have many years of experience and are qualified by training with Tan and Natham. They are highly skilled in all aspects of mountaineering in Nepal and hold Nepal Government Licenses, Mountaineering Association Accreditations and Summit Certificates for Nepal Himalayan Peaks. All these government licenses are displayed in our office.
Your physical fitness is very important to climb an 8000m peak, great physical fitness is required. Not only for your chance to succeed, but for your overall safety and happiness, our guides like to tell clients, "Get in the best shape of your life".
In Nepal's Himalayas, people under the age of 16 are prohibited from climbing 8,000-meter high mountains. Tibet does not allow anyone under the age of 18 to climb the 8,000m peak. This was a recent change in Nepal but the Tibet Mountaineering Association had limited access to the Everest North Region due to the age of 75.
On popular trekking trails we use lodges/guest houses (aka teahouses), food will be provided by these lodges. Menu meals are often available including soups, noodles, rice and dishes. On certain 8,000m trekking routes, lodges and guest houses may be limited, or may not be available. In these cases, accommodation will be through tents and food will be provided by our staff. In these instances meals will be prepared en route with a canister stove or natural fire. Our expedition cooks will prepare meals while at base camp. Our climbing Sherpas above base camp will provide food. Above the base camp we always supply high altitude food that meets the needs of our customers.
Communication will vary greatly depending on the location. Most trekking routes have local VHF phones and increasingly mobile coverage is available from various carriers. We recommend picking up a CDMA pre-paid card and inserting it into your mobile device upon arrival. In remote areas, communication is generally not available, or on a very limited basis. Some other and more expensive options include using a satellite phone. We like to use Delorme. We will always supply phone available on request of customers during trekking and mountaineering expeditions.
A licensed, trained and experienced climbing Sherpa guide will lead all expeditions to the 8,000m peaks above base camp. Our teams may be led by a licensed leader or a professional trekking/trekking guide while reaching the base camp.
Yes A Mountain Magic Treks representative will be waiting for you at the airport with your placard. Customers need to collect their luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. Kathmandu International Terminal is very small and when you exit the airport terminal you will see our representative carrying a placard with your name. Then we will transfer you to the hotel. We monitor all customer flights, so if your flight is delayed, we will adjust your pick-up time and wait for you according to schedule.
Yes All trekkers and climbers are required to purchase adequate travel insurance, including a helicopter emergency evacuation plan. Insurance is not expensive compared to the cost of evacuation during the trip. Without travel insurance during your trek or climb you will be financially responsible for all costs of your evacuation and treatment. These bills can be thousands of dollars.
You need to get your travel insurance policy before you leave your home. Your insurance should cover high altitude mountaineering, mountain rescue and helicopter transport to medical facilities. These types of policies are readily available through many travel agents and/or our affiliates. Before purchasing the package make sure that the policy covers helicopter evacuation from remote mountain locations, ensure that they will pick you up in a fully equipped medical transport helicopter. Also, be aware of what the agency classifies an emergency. For example, if you break your foot they won't send a helicopter for you. Most companies say that their bases for picking up customers are determined by whether or not the customer is admitted to the hospital from illness. We recommend the company Global Rescue. Do some research because not all insurance companies respond to emergency situations in a timely manner.
Timing requirements vary for different peaks and a variety of weather conditions. It usually takes 25-30 days to reach the base camp for the 8,000m high peaks. This time may also vary depending on the approach, mountain location and altitude. It usually takes 40-65 days to reach the height of the mountain and the major cities around it.
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you may suffer from general breathing difficulties such as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS). AMS is usually managed by trekking at an appropriate pace, proper acclimatization and proper diet and hydration. AMS is the early stage of any mountain-related illness, with symptoms including headache, lethargy, nausea and vomiting, and other common flu-like symptoms. AMS can further develop into cerebral edema which is a serious disease caused by swelling of the brain. Pulmonary edema is a build-up of fluid in the lungs and is very serious. Both cerebral edema and pulmonary edema can lead to death. Sunburn can also be a serious problem at altitude. The use of sunscreen and appropriate clothing is important to protect against UV rays. Snow blindness is also a serious condition and is caused by extended exposure to the sun's rays throughout the day. It occurs mainly in glaciated terrain. For this we recommend sunglasses with category 4 lenses.
On our website please click on the cost included, table where you will find a list of everything included in your campaign. If you have any questions, please contact Mountain Magic Treks at info@mountainmagictreks.com.
Most equipment for the 8,000m expedition, including food, climbing/personal gear, will be delivered by jeep, truck and flight. Then we will use yaks, porters or mules to reach base camp or advanced base camp. With full board service, porters will help transport customers to higher camps.
We provide personal climbing Sherpa guides (1:1 ratio). This personal climbing Sherpa guide will take your gear as well as camping gear and food to Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (upon request), set up your tent and prepare your high altitude meals. If you share the climbing Sherpa service you are expected to contribute by carrying light loads at the higher camps. If you only use the base camp logistics service, you must carry your own food, equipment, tent, and climbing gear.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons for trekking in Nepal. Especially September-October and April-May are the best months. The 8,000m peak climbing season in Pakistan runs from June to August.
There is no legal requirement to join a climbing group to climb the 8,000m peak, but if climbing in Tibet, the Tibetan Mountaineering Association requires at least two people to issue a climbing permit. That being said solo climbing is generally more expensive and much less safe. We recommend hiring a reputable guide service for a safe and secure summit opportunity.
We employ trained and experienced high altitude expedition cooks and provide delicious, nutritious and healthy food. There will be a lot of emphasis on carbohydrates, which are essential as a source of energy and are also very easy to digest.
We will try to provide as fresh vegetables as possible and our cooks have a wide range of food stocks and campaign members are encouraged to request their personal favorites to promote good appetite and adequate calorie consumption. Altitude greatly affects your appetite. Different flavors of tea, coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours a day.
At high camps we use freeze dry packaged foods from USA or UK. They offer a variety of high-quality flavors and are easy to prepare at a height. Your personal climbing sherpa will melt enough ice for hot water, tea, coffee and a variety of juices. At Camp One, it may be possible to bring fresh food from base camp.
The advance base camp is always located on a glacial moraine and is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camps 1 and 2 are generally located in safer locations, but Camp 1 should be chosen wisely as some areas are prone to heavy snowfall. Camp 3 is located on a steep slope below the yellow band with fresh snow conditions and the possibility of micro-avalanches and sloths. Our main objective is to provide high quality service with an experienced climbing staff where you have unforgettable trips. Our first priority is your safety and security and that is why we only use experienced climbing Sherpa guides. With our background in climbing, mountaineering, and logistics services, we understand the needs of independent climbers and employ experienced climbing guides.
All foreign visitors, except Indian citizens, are required to obtain a Nepal visa. These visas are usually easy to obtain upon arrival at the airport. China, some African countries, Afghanistan and Pakistan are more difficult and usually require more time. Since the spring of 2015, Nepal Immigration has implemented a computerized automated visa system, making the arrival immigration process faster and easier. For the Tibet expedition you will need a two-week single entry visa on arrival and a two-week single entry visa on departure, which will cost US$ 25.00 per two weeks. Most of the 8,000m Himalayan expeditions will be longer than 40 days, so we advise you to get a three month multiple entry visa which will cost US$100.00. If you are leaving Nepal within 24 hours, you can request a free transit visa.
Yes, you need to obtain a visa to enter Tibet. We will arrange this visa for you with the Chinese Embassy during your preparation period in Kathmandu. This will allow us to collect visas and boarding permits at the same time. You do not need to get a Chinese visa, mainland Chinese visas do not work in Tibet.
To go to Kodari we use jeep or mini bus. After crossing the Tibet border, the Tibet Mountain Association (TMA) will provide transport by jeep and arrange hotel accommodation in Zhangmu, Nyalam and Tingri. TMA will also provide the same service on the way to the Chinese base camp and on the way back to the border after the climbing period. After two days of acclimatization at the Chinese base camp, we will reach the advanced base camp by trekking for two days.
Yes Climbing permits are included in the package cost and Mountain Magic Treks will arrange permits, visas and transportation services. CMA (Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association) will provide support from the border to the base camp in China. CTMA has a monopoly for the service as the Chinese government imposes strict controls on foreigners traveling through Tibet.
In Kathmandu we provide you hotel accommodation of the requested category and send you to a quiet part of Thamel. In Tibet, CTMA provides transport and accommodation services between the border and base camp. The accommodations provided by CTMA are very basic and we have no control or influence over these accommodations due to Chinese policies.
Our experience tells us that a two sleeping bag system works best for 8,000m peaks. A sleeping bag is used and kept at the base camp. This bag should be rated for -20 to -25 degrees Celsius and the second bag used in high camps should be rated for -30 to -40 degrees Celsius. When traveling in Tibet, blankets are available at lodges in Nyalam and Tingri, but are preferred by some clients. In lodges to use their -20°C sleeping bags. Your bag should also be down, not synthetic.
Mountain Magic Treks will provide thick quality pads for use at base camp and advance base camp. You will need to provide your own sleeping pad for higher camps. Foam pads usually work best, but some customers prefer air mattresses.
Please click on Climbing Equipment List where you will find a recommended climbing gear list. If you need more information please contact us at info@mountainmagictreks.com
We recommend purchasing quality down gear from brands like North Face, Ozark, and Marmot, as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets.
During the 8000m trek we advise you to use One Sport Millet or La-Sportiva climbing shoes. Your personal gear is one of the key factors to a successful summit opportunity.
Make sure to invest in high-quality first-hand equipment. You need to have basic climbing gear like helmet, ice-axe, crampons, climbing and trekking boots alpine style harness (black diamond alpine bod), ascender device, rappel device, at least 4 carabiners (2 locking and 2 non). -locking) and 4 prussic loops (2 long and 2 short). An information pack will include details for your personal journey.
There are many options for customization during your Cho Oyu expedition. It is always a good idea to climb a 6,000m peak before an 8,000m peak. Some of our clients take advantage of climbing Mera Peak, Lobuche Peak, Island Peak and Pisang Peak before attempting Cho Oyu. These peaks will offer acclimatization at 6,000 meters, which is about the same height as most of the 8,000 meter peaks between Camp 1 and Camp 2. If you don't have the time or resources you can adapt during the trip from the border to the base camp. Most 8,000m expeditions will have an acclimatization period where you will ascend and descend several times between base camps and upper camps.
Acute Altitude Sickness is the body's adaptive response to the reduced amount of oxygen in the blood. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to perform normal functions. This is caused by the partial pressure of oxygen, the difference between extracellular and intracellular pressures. Altitude sickness usually occurs above 3000 meters (9,842 feet) but it's different for everyone - there's no way to know your own susceptibility before being at altitude, so it's important that you monitor your health. Generally higher cardiovascular fitness reduces susceptibility to AMS.
Symptoms of AMS can be mild and subside after a day of rest, or if left untreated, it can lead to serious health problems, including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate travel insurance, which does not cover helicopter emergency evacuation. Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours, although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and usually subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to the altitude. They may reappear as you continue to move up. Symptoms of AMS usually appear gradually and may include one or a combination of the following:
Common symptoms associated with more severe acute mountain sickness include:
All people at high altitude will experience some of the above symptoms mildly. These symptoms will persist if the body cannot adjust to the altitude and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness can progress to high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) or high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). Edema is the accumulation of fluid in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if left untreated.
To breathe
Risks during an 8,000-meter climb are developing AMS, gastric problems, physical injuries, or frostbite. Mountain Magic Treks maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all of the above. Each team has a suitably equipped and up-to-date first aid kit and trained personnel to use this equipment. We require valid travel insurance of each group member, which allows for medivac in case of emergency. We treat AMS, gastric problems, bleeding and frostbite with more serious problems requiring emergency evacuation. Helicopters are not available for rescue in Tibet, so all rescues are done by jeeps and manpower. There are some risks associated with natural disasters such as avalanches, avalanches, landslides and possible earthquakes. We are fully aware of all these risks and have developed quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our expeditions. This includes back-up communication equipment at our office in Kathmandu to help us in any emergency situation. If roads are blocked during major landslides or earthquakes, we will evacuate climbing members by plane from Lhasa in Tibet and Nepal by helicopter. These evacuations are considered emergency evacuations due to natural disasters, meaning the cost of airfare or helicopters must be covered by your travel insurance.
Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness. It is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications you are taking before climbing. You can help your body adapt and prevent altitude sickness by:
Many travelers are able to adapt successfully by following the guidelines mentioned earlier. However, there are instances where medical treatment is necessary. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easy to treat in the early stages.
Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptom recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will always monitor you for symptoms and pace you appropriately to minimize your risk for AMS. We ask that you assist the guide by reporting any of the symptoms described above and allow your guide to take appropriate and timely action such as:
Complete the booking form on the relevant trip on the booking page. Select your group size and required services and get our price for your group. Just click on the Book Now / Inquiry Form button and give us the required details. We require a 20% deposit for your trip to secure your booking.
We also need a scanned page of your passport, a JPG format of your passport photos suitable for printing and your flight itinerary. An additional 30% of the travel cost must be paid as a second installment at least 15 days before leaving your country of residence. The remaining amount should be paid after arriving in Kathmandu.
Please visit the links below for more details on booking process and down payment.
https://www.mountainmagictreks.com/
Climbing Manaslu is a very serious physical and physical task with some technical aspects. Excellent physical condition is required. Many of our clients at Manaslu Abhiyan are cyclists, runners and fitness enthusiasts. Some of these clients compete in 50 to 70 km bike rides, marathon runs, or triathlons. If clients are participating in these or similar fitness efforts, the next step is to ramp up your training for 3-4 months before the campaign. This should adequately prepare you for this type of travel.
Try to run three to four times a week during this 3-4 months of training to cover your 8km within 1 hour or 100km road trip within 6 hours, which means you can maintain the pace required for this journey. To help prepare, you should do outdoor step training or climb hills at least twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get inside, the more ready you will be for the expedition.
There is a 10 meter ice cliff section from which you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.
Our expeditions are scheduled in spring and autumn, with the climbing window scheduled for the monsoon transition period. This allows us to make a summit bid when the winds stop at 8,000m peaks for a few weeks before the monsoon changes direction. The difference between the spring and autumn campaigns is the change in temperature from cold to warm and from warm to cold, respectively.
Our guides are professionals who are either trained and assessed by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) so that they have a vast repertoire of skills that enable them to provide you with a dedicated level of safety during expeditions or many years of mountaineering experience. On the world's highest peaks. Our guides are experienced in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have at least 3 years guiding on Everest and Manaslu.
When you reach the base camp, our staff will set up the camp and you will have time to rest and prepare for proper surroundings. After completing the puja ceremony at base camp, the climbing Sherpa guide will open the route and establish Camp 1. Once the camp is established, clients will be taken to Camp 1 for acclimatization.
Depending on your physical fitness and body's response to the altitude, you can stay at Camp 1 for another night, or go to Camp 2 and then return to base camp.
Then our high altitude Sherpa guide will open the route and fix the line to Camp Two and supply gear, equipment and food. We will then provide a similar acclimatization. If necessary and weather conditions permit, they will allow you to sleep one night at Camp 2 and then return to the base camp via Camp One. During your rest and time at the base camp our Sherpa guide will open the route, fix the camp and line and supply food, oxygen and equipment and prepare for the summit push.
After your Camp One and Two acclimatization, our climbing Sherpa guide will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery conditions. If the upcoming weather report, your physical fitness and Sherpa guide conditions are good, we will start the summit push. In the Summit Push, you will visit Camp 1, Camp 2 and then Camp 3 before heading to the summit. At Camp 3 you will wake up at 01:00 and start the summit push If due to any reason (bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incident) it is necessary to return to the base camp before the summit push, but we still have a climbing period, weather conditions and climbers are willing to try again we offer one more opportunity will do . However, more than 98% of people succeed either way
It is important for every climber to choose the right expedition guide service that not only suits their needs, but also provides the best possible safe and secure mountaineering experience.
There are more than 1,800 trekking companies offering 8,000m climbs in Nepal, including Mount Everest, but only about 30 companies that regularly operate the 8,000m peak. We are proud to be one of these 30 companies and consistently propose, run and succeed in these types of campaigns year after year.
It is very important that climbers who choose Mountain Magic Treks for this once-in-a-lifetime trip have expectations that match the program we offer and Mountain Magic Treks style of expedition. We don't just want to fill "our climbs", but instead we want to include a team of friends focused on reaching the summit with the highest level of support and safety standards that can be provided by a guiding service on Everest.
We team this with the best standards of food and quality equipment to help each client reach their full potential. We feel that we offer you the best environment and opportunity to succeed on the highest mountain in the world.
We are always developing and enhancing our operational system to ensure that you will participate and provide the features provided. We think our climbing members deserve nothing less when it comes to hiking and climbing!
In the interest of giving you the most optimal chance to summit, we limit our team size to ensure group summits on perfect weather days; Sometimes the window days for summiting Mt. Inexpensive climbs with large group sizes are often missed because they split their groups over several potential peak days
We feel that our climbing members are experiencing climbing as a team of family and friends, even among international individuals. We accept a maximum of 08 people in a group and if we have more than that we always split into two groups. So that our base camp staff will cook food, climbing Sherpa guide will take full care of you and provide service as per your wish.
Mountain Magic Treks methodology and strategic approach to Everest climbing has seen us achieve the highest success rates and our extensive experience gives us the edge to make the right decisions. We offer a consistently higher Sherpa to Guide ratio than any other operator, resulting in more support and backup for your summit attempt and therefore a greater safety margin and chance of success. There is always a 1:1 ratio of climbing sherpa/guide to client. We always use professional and experienced climbing Sherpas or guides who have reached the summit of all Mt Everest.
Our guides are professionals who are either trained and assessed by the International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) so that they have a vast repertoire of skills that enable them to provide you with a dedicated level of safety during expeditions or many years of mountaineering experience. On the world's highest peaks. Our guides are experienced in both advanced and basic rescue courses and all have at least 3 years guiding on Mt Everest.
Mountain magic Treks Everest Climbs is at the forefront of providing top communication for our Everest Climbs. This allows us to receive and deliver comprehensive weather forecasts through US, European and Kathmandu Weather Forecasts. During the climb and at base camp our lead guide is always equipped with a satellite phone. Two-way radio communication is also provided between climbing members, guides, Sherpas and base camp staff. A local mobile network is also available at the base camp which provides easy connectivity to your family while staying at the base camp.
Mountain Magic Treks focuses on comfortable conditions at the base camp with good quality food and other services. We find that this helps costumers with their overall success rate on the mountain. Our cooks are considered the best in the business, serving healthy and delicious meals with a tailored array of menus to suit all your dietary needs.
The food served to you on the mountain is also of high quality and designed to sustain you for the tough climb. We offer a variety of options to suit any diet plan, including vegetarian, vegan, continental, Indian and more. If you have a special meal idea, please provide it to us 60 days before the expedition so that we can plan the perfect meal for your trip
From Southwest: It usually takes 8 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu. The approach to the base camp is short, sweet and beautiful with a stunning flight to Lukla and following the route from Everest base camp through Namcha Bazar to Pengboche and skirting the edge of Pangboche.
Please read Mountain Magic Treks Pvt. Ltd. Terms and Conditions carefully prior to trip booking. Trekking or mountaineering in the higher elevations of the Himalayas is one of the most adventurous endeavors which carries the risk of AMS, injuries, or even death. Mountain Magic Treks is always concerned about trekkers' comfort, safety, and health while meandering at higher altitudes. We contribute great effort to reduce or control the risk and hazard, but sometimes nature’s curse or fluctuating climate in the Himalayas is beyond our control and we are not responsible for it.
If you are a keen adventure lover and are ready to follow the hereby mentioned terms and conditions, then you are heartily welcome at the Mountain Magic Treks Pvt.Ltd office, Galko Pakha, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal.
1. All package bookings are handled by Mountain Magic Treks Pvt. Ltd, an authorized adventure company based in Nepal's capital, Kathmandu.
2. The term "trip" formally refers to walking, sightseeing, treks, tours, mountaineering, expeditions, or holidays in the mystical land of Nepal.
3. Mountain Magic Treks faithfully includes all amenities in the package's estimated price.
4. Please go through the itinerary page or trek inclusion/exclusion pages for the details of the cost transparency. The trek cost may vary from one package to another, and some packages don’t include the cost of the following:
Personal travel insurance, medical assistance, and helicopter evacuation.
Visa, passport, and transit point expenses.
Extra meals, entertainment activities, accommodation and transportation costs are not included in the itinerary.
Extra baggage and gratuity
5. For trip confirmation, travelers must pay 20% of the total trip cost up front.
6. You can pay the booking confirmation amount either by credit card or wire transfer. Both payment options are subject to additional bank service fees of up to 4% on top of the sum.
Pay deposit by wire transfer:
Pay to: Mountain Magic Treks Pvt. Ltd
Current A/c: 01908312510017
Paying Bank: Himalayan Bank Ltd
Account Type: Foreign Currency (USD.)
Branch: Thamel
Bank Street Address: Karmachari Sanchaya Kosh Building, Tridevi Marg, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal
SWIFT CODE: HIMANPKA
Or
Payment for Booking:
Payment can be done through the below option:
Bank Transfer:
Account Name: Mountain Magic Treks Pvt. Ltd
Account Number: 0570010152240
Paying Bank: Mega Bank Nepal Limited
Account Type: Local Currency (Nepali.)
Address: Thamel Branch, Kathmandu, Nepal
SWIFT CODE: MBNLNPKA
Bank service charges related to submitting a deposit are the responsibility of a client:
Risk and Liabilities:
(Bank service charges related to submitting a deposit are the responsibility of the client)
7. The trip will be booked once the payment is made by the travelers. We will send you the confirmation letter via email and guarantee that you will receive all of the services listed in the itinerary.
8. The final payment must be submitted at the Mountain Magic Treks office or at the hotel where you will be staying before the tip departure. Otherwise, you will not be legitimate for the trip and no final documentation will be disclosed before payment.
9. Regarding the trip cancellation, we offer a free trip cancellation service upon submission of a trustable reason before 90 days of the departure date with adequate evidence and written reasons.
10. If you cancel the trip 60 days prior to the departure date, then a 75% cancellation fee will be levied from the booking amount.
11. An 85% cancellation fee will be levied if you cancel the trip before 30 days of the trip's departure date.
12. The company will be unable to refund the earlier paid (20%) booking fee if you cancel the trek before 15 days of departure.
13. There will be no payment refund if you voluntarily leave or cancel the trip once it has started, but if you are forced to leave due to unforeseen immediate circumstances, then payment can be refunded after proper discretion.
14. We guarantee your safe and successful trip; however, the company reserves the right to cancel the trip if there will be no minimum number of travelers. The company will postpone or manage alternative trips in this condition.
15. If the company cancels the trip due to any unforeseen circumstances which are beyond our control (i.e. natural disaster, flight cancellation, strikes, wars, riots, quarantine, government intervention policy, weather conditions), we will refund after deduction of the minimum operating cost involved.
16. If you want to change your booking date, the booking amendment request must be made 90 days prior to the original trip departure.
17. If trekkers demand to change the departure date prior to 60 days of the final departure, US $ 50.00 per person will be charged as a cancellation fee. The cost of the trip may also be increased if the market price soars higher during the postponed trip date.
18. The policy of our company is that trekkers must have an insurance policy contract if they want to trek with Mountain Magic Treks. The policy must feature medical coverage, air ambulance, helicopter evacuation facility, and flight cancellation insurance if possible.
19. Mountain Magic Treks and Expedition organizes various adventurous trips, which have a high-risk factor and demand more physical stamina and training. If you can’t accomplish the trek due to your physical inability or sickness, we are not obliged to refund the payment.
20. During the trip, there may be hindrances, obstacles, or circumstances such as political riots, insurgencies, accidents, climate change, or natural disasters. Make sure you are ready to deal with all of these problems.
21. The trip route, accommodation and modes of transport may be changed without prior notice due to unforeseen circumstances. It is for your convenience and safety, so I hope you will display flexible human nature in this context.
22. While changing the route, transportation, accommodation, or itinerary due to the above circumstances, we may charge an additional fee or lower the cost as per the total expenses of the entire trek.
23. Mountain Magic Treks holds all the authority to decline, accept, detain, or retain any member of the trip if we find anyone suspicious or indisciplined. If you want to trek with Mountain Magic Treks, you must accept our leadership during the whole trip.
24. Mountain Magic Treks has contracted with a network of companies, the government of Nepal, and individuals to assist the travelers during the trip. These third parties are qualified to perform the duties as contracted. We are not liable in the event of loss, damage, or irregularities if the third parties don’t perform their duties properly.
25. Mountain Magic Treks is not liable for any law or rule violations committed by travelers in any country.
26. This agreement is governed by the laws of the Government of Nepal. No individual, including employees, representatives, or guides of the company, can alter the terms and conditions.
27. In exceptional circumstances, these terms and conditions may be waived by submitting a written request to the director. Only the director of the company has all the rights to amend them.
28. Travelers must be physically and mentally fit for the trek. It is compulsory to bring health certificates along with proper legal documents for trip approval if asked.
29. Mountain Magic Treks is not liable for any additional costs or compensation incurred as a result of a flight being canceled or delayed due to weather or other factors. We can manage alternative arrangements on special requests, which may require additional extra cost.
30. We have displayed authentic, genuine, and accurate information on our official website and brochure. If you notice any errors, incomplete or incorrect information, please notify us as soon as possible.
Please read all the terms and conditions mentioned above before making the bookings. You must abide by these conditions if you fancy trekking in the Himalayas with Mountain Magic Treks Pvt. Ltd.
Russell Brice
10th Dec, 2022
Ama Dablam climbs
Oct 2022
I've had great experience climbing with Mountain Magic Treks (and I've climbed with several North American and European outfits in the past). It was a private trip and everything from start to finish was just excellent. The organization was excellent with great responsiveness to emails and great flexibility in adjusting the itinerary for my needs. Once I arrived in Nepal, everything was perfect and in many ways better than expected. I had two Sherpas with me who were the most humble, friendly, knowledgeable, experienced, strong and helpful humans you could ever wish for - great communication and no language barrier. I always felt extremely safe and supported, and they went the extra mile to accommodate the itinerary when needed. The basecamp setup for Ama Dablam was phenomenal - the best tents I've ever experienced (proper beds/mattresses), great food for basecamp, and great support and more like easy access to wifi. Most importantly, everyone in the company is completely trustworthy and the best people to work with, and they really try to help in any way they can.
(For example I left my big puffy down jacket at basecamp and they didn't find it, they even sent it back to the US, no questions asked). I don't think this review does it any justice as I had the greatest experience possible.
We highly recommend Mountain Magic Treks!
Enjoy the popular trekking and tour packages in Nepal Himalayas. 2025.
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